Walk into some beauty shops or scroll through social media in Zambia and you will quickly notice how much attention is given to products promising brighter, smoother, clearer or more “even” skin.
But there is a growing conversation around one particular practice: skin bleaching.
What makes the conversation more complicated is that some people who use skin-lightening products do not describe what they are doing as bleaching at all. Instead, they call it “skin care.”
For some, the distinction is about language. A person may say they are simply trying to remove dark spots, even out their complexion, clear acne marks or make their skin look brighter. Others may openly acknowledge that they want a lighter complexion.
The reasons people use these products can be complicated and are not necessarily the same for everyone.
The World Health Organization says skin-lightening practices can be driven by a combination of psychological, social and cultural factors, including beauty ideals, social norms and advertising. WHO also notes that skin bleaching is a widespread practice in many parts of the world.
This is where the term “skin care” can become confusing.
Skin care generally refers to practices intended to maintain or improve the health and appearance of the skin, such as cleansing, moisturising and protecting the skin from excessive sun exposure.
Skin lightening, on the other hand, involves deliberately reducing the amount of melanin in the skin to produce a lighter appearance. WHO describes skin-lightening products as products used to make the skin lighter by reducing melanin.
That does not mean every product advertised as a “brightening” or “toning” product is automatically dangerous.
The important issue is what is actually inside the product and how it is being used.
Some skin-lightening products can contain substances such as hydroquinone, corticosteroids or mercury. WHO warns that mercury-containing skin-lightening products are hazardous, while the U.S. Food and Drug Administration has also warned about potentially harmful products containing mercury or hydroquinone.
Mercury is particularly concerning because repeated exposure through skin products can allow it to enter the body. WHO says mercury exposure can damage the nervous, digestive and immune systems, as well as the kidneys, skin and eyes.
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The FDA has also reported serious problems associated with some hydroquinone-containing skin-lightening products, including skin rashes, facial swelling and ochronosis, a form of potentially permanent skin discolouration.
Another problem is that consumers may not always know exactly what they are putting on their skin.
Some products sold through informal channels may have incomplete labels, unclear ingredients or marketing claims that make them appear harmless. The FDA warns that some illegal skin-lightening products containing mercury or hydroquinone may not properly disclose those ingredients on their labels.
This is why calling every skin-lightening product “skin care” can be misleading.
Someone may genuinely believe they are taking care of their skin because the product makes their complexion appear smoother, brighter or more even. But a visible cosmetic effect does not necessarily mean the skin is becoming healthier.
There is also a much bigger social question behind the popularity of skin lightening.
Why does lighter skin sometimes get presented as more beautiful, more attractive or more desirable?
The answer cannot be reduced to one explanation. Beauty standards are influenced by culture, family, advertising, social media, celebrities, relationships and personal preferences. WHO’s recent work on skin-lightening practices specifically highlights the importance of understanding these behavioural and social factors rather than simply assuming that people use such products because they do not understand the risks.
For some people, the motivation may be hyperpigmentation or acne marks rather than a desire to change their overall complexion. For others, the pressure may come from the belief that a lighter appearance attracts more compliments or improves their appearance.
Social media can make that pressure even more visible.
Photographs are often edited, lighting can dramatically change someone’s complexion and beauty influencers may promote particular products without explaining their ingredients or potential risks.
A person seeing the result online may therefore believe that achieving the same appearance is simply a matter of buying the right cream.
But healthy skin does not have one required colour.
Melanin is the pigment responsible for skin colour, and reducing it is not the same thing as improving the underlying health of the skin.
This is why the conversation in Zambia should perhaps move beyond simply asking whether someone is “bleaching.”
A more useful question is: What exactly are you putting on your skin, why are you using it, and is it safe?
Someone dealing with acne, hyperpigmentation, melasma or other skin conditions may need a proper diagnosis and evidence-based treatment rather than an unregulated whitening product.
People who experience persistent irritation, swelling, unusual pigmentation, burning or other concerning reactions after using a skin product should consider speaking with a qualified healthcare professional.
The biggest lesson is that “skin care” and “skin lightening” are not automatically the same thing.
Taking care of your skin should not require risking your health in pursuit of a particular complexion.
And perhaps the most important part of the conversation is recognising that wanting healthy, well-cared-for skin is perfectly understandable, while the pressure to become lighter is a much more complicated social issue that deserves an honest conversation rather than judgment.
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